Daily, from Nice

Nathalie's journal

One street, one shop, one small administrative victory at a time. If it took me a morning to figure out, it's written down here so it takes you ten minutes.

Today · 28 August Local businesses

The knife sharpener who comes to Libération market on Fridays

He sets up between the fishmonger and the olive stand at seven, works until the crowd thins, and charges four euros a blade. I brought him a knife I'd been ruining bread with since April. He looked at it the way a doctor looks at a patient who waited too long.

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Earlier this week

26 August·Paperwork

Two hours at the CAF desk and one very kind woman

Bring three copies of everything. Bring a book. Bring the lease.

24 August·Walks

Where to swim in Nice when the pebbles defeat you

Four coves within a bus ride, ranked by how far you carry your towel.

22 August·Food & markets

The bakery on rue Bonaparte that sells out by nine

Ask for the fougasse. Say bonjour first — it matters more than the order.

20 August·Local businesses

A plumber who answers the phone, and what he charged

On finding trades in a city where everyone recommends a cousin.

The archive

18 Aug The bus that costs €1.70 and goes to Italy Walks 15 Aug Opening a bank account, third attempt Paperwork 12 Aug A tailor in the old town who fixed a suitcase zip Local businesses 9 Aug Learning the words for the pharmacy Language